English, circa 1870–1890
This late Victorian charm bracelet embodies the romantic language of 19th-century sentimentality — a jewel designed not merely to adorn, but to remember.
Composed of substantial 9-carat gold curb links — each individually hallmarked — the bracelet possesses both reassuring weight and rhythmic elegance. The links are carefully formed and uniformly finished, creating a supple yet powerful silhouette characteristic of late Victorian gold work. Suspended from the chain is a richly symbolic pairing: a Maltese cross charm, marked “C.18,” and a heart-shaped pendant mounted in warm yellow gold.
The Maltese cross, long associated with protection, devotion, and steadfastness, gained renewed popularity during the Victorian period as a symbolic device in jewelry. Whether worn as a token of faith or fidelity, it served as both ornament and moral emblem.
The heart pendant forms the emotional center of the piece. Its surface is pavé-set with vivid turquoise cabochons — stones deeply favored in the 19th century for their protective and talismanic properties. Turquoise was believed to safeguard the wearer and signify constancy in love. At its center rests a small diamond, subtly scintillating amidst the sea of blue, symbolizing endurance and permanence.
The verso reveals a glazed heart-shaped compartment — likely once containing a lock of hair, textile fragment, or miniature memento. Such locket-style reverses are quintessentially Victorian, transforming the bracelet from decorative object into intimate reliquary.
Finished with a security chain — an era-appropriate practical refinement — the bracelet balances romance with utility. At 22.3 grams, the weight is substantial without being cumbersome, and the 9-inch length offers graceful drape at the wrist.
Altogether, this bracelet is a study in Victorian emotional language: faith (cross), love (heart), protection (turquoise), and permanence (diamond) unified in gold.
It is both jewel and narrative — a wearable chapter in the history of sentiment.
Purchased at auction Somerset, United Kingdom