Victorian mourning jewelry holds a unique place in history, blending sentimentality, symbolism, and fashion in ways that reflect the era’s preoccupation with death and remembrance. Among the select gemstones used, jet was the most prominent, prized for its deep black color and association with mourning rituals.
This post will explore the significance of jet in Victorian mourning jewelry, its origins, properties, production, cultural symbolism, and its decline in popularity.
The Role of Mourning in Victorian Society
Mourning played a leading role in Victorian society, particularly following the death of Prince Albert in 1861. Queen Victoria’s prolonged mourning for her husband influenced fashion trends across Britain and the continent, reinforcing the use of mourning attire and jewelry. The mourning period, defined by strict etiquette, included rules about dress, behavior, and even the materials considered appropriate for mourning jewelry. Jet, due to its somber color and organic origins, became the preferred material during this period. Its association with grief, remembrance, and respect made it a staple of Victorian mourning customs. Jet did not hold center stage alone, pearls, garnets and amethyst were also suitable.
Jet is a form of fossilized wood, originating from ancient trees that underwent compression over millions of years. Gemologists consider it a mineraloid rather than a true mineral, as it lacks a crystalline structure. Unlike coal, which burns easily, jet is durable, lightweight, and can be carved and polished to a high sheen. The best-quality jet was sourced from Whitby, England, a coastal town in North Yorkshire. Whitby jet became the gold standard for mourning jewelry, with artisans in the area producing exquisite pieces that were in high demand throughout the 19th century.
Production and Craftsmanship of Jet Jewelry
The jet industry flourished in Whitby, where artisans specialized in carving and polishing the material into intricate designs. The process involved several stages:
1. Extraction – Raw jet was collected from cliffs or mined from deposits around Whitby.
2. Shaping – The jet was sawed, carved, and turned on lathes to achieve various shapes.
3. Polishing – The final stage involved smoothing and buffing the jet to achieve its characteristic glossy finish.
Because jet was lightweight yet durable, it was ideal for large, elaborate pieces of jewelry, including brooches, lockets, pendants, and earrings.
Types of Mourning Jewelry Made from Jet
Victorian mourning jewelry took many forms, reflecting distinct stages of grief and personal expressions of loss. The most common pieces included:
• Brooches – Often worn at the throat or bodice, brooches featured symbolic motifs such as weeping willows, urns, and angels.
• Lockets – These were designed to hold a lock of hair, a miniature portrait, or a personal memento of the deceased.
• Pendants and Necklaces – Many featured engraved messages such as 'In Memory Of' or initials of the departed.
• Earrings – Jet earrings were worn as part of full mourning attire, often featuring simple geometric designs.
• Bracelets and Rings – Jet rings and bracelets could be personalized with engravings, cameos, or woven hair from the deceased.
Symbolism in Jet Mourning Jewelry
Victorian mourning jewelry was highly symbolic, with each motif and material carrying specific meanings:
• Black Color – Symbolized grief, solemnity, and respect for the deceased.
• Hairwork – Often incorporated into jet pieces, hair signified eternal remembrance.
• Cameos – Jet was frequently carved into cameos featuring classical figures, angels, or mourning women.
• Floral Motifs – Flowers like lilies (purity) and forget-me-nots (remembrance) were common.
• Urns and Weeping Willows – Represented sorrow and the transience of life.
The Rise and Decline of Jet Jewelry
Jet enjoyed peak popularity from the 1860s to the 1880s, driven by Queen Victoria’s mourning period and the strict social conventions of the time. However, by the late 19th century, jet’s dominance began to wane due to several factors:
1. Changing Fashion Trends – The rigid mourning customs of the early Victorian period began to relax.
2. Introduction of Imitations – Cheaper alternatives, such as French jet (black glass) and vulcanite (hardened rubber), provided more affordable options.
3. Industrialization – Mass production methods allowed for the creation of new jewelry styles, reducing the demand for handcrafted jet pieces.
By the early 20th century, jet had fallen out of fashion, though it remains a valuable collector's item today.
Jet in Modern Jewelry and Collecting
While mourning jewelry is no longer a widespread custom, jet remains a sought-after material among antique collectors. Genuine Whitby jet pieces command high prices, particularly those featuring fine craftsmanship and historical significance. Modern jewelers in Whitby continue to produce jet jewelry, often blending traditional techniques with contemporary designs.
For collectors, distinguishing real jet from imitations is essential. Some key tests include:
• Heat Test – Real jet warms quickly in the hand, while glass remains cold.
• Streak Test – Rubbing jet on unglazed porcelain leaves a brown streak, whereas French jet leaves a black streak.
• Weight and Sound – Jet is lightweight and makes a dull sound when tapped against a solid surface, unlike glass, which produces a sharper clink.
Jet mourning jewelry encapsulates the deep emotional and cultural values of the Victorian era. As both a fashion statement and a means of honoring the dead, jet played a significant role in mourning traditions. Though its popularity faded with the relaxation of strict mourning customs, jet remains an enduring symbol of remembrance, loss, and Victorian sentimentality.
